fashion

Committed, self-sufficient and defiant, Yorkshireman John Alexander Skelton is the kind of fashion designer who looks forward by revisiting – and rewriting – history. Here his timeless creations are modelled by volunteers on a vegetable growing co-op outside London.

The Farago Projects Prize for emerging talents is a biannual initiative committed to nurturing the next generation of artists, which highlights and accelerates the recognition of young professionals in fashion. This year’s photography winner, JOHN SPYROU, was selected by a panel of judges including Frank Lebon, Georgia Pendlebury, Jaime Perlman, Luis Alberto Rodriguez, Florence Tétier and Marie Gomis-Trezise, and was offered access to the archives of Jean Paul Gaultier for his debut shoot

Instagram star TOBY BOORNE DAVIDSON is the Wombat Guy – dedicated to curing the burrowing marsupial of the outbreaks of mange that threaten its existence, and thereby helping preserve one of Australia’s most endearing species

A new cohort of young and emerging designers are giving fresh purpose to upcycled and reclaimed materials – and lending the human form a dramatic silhouette in the process

Housed in an underground vault at his family home in Sardinia, the personal archive of fashion designer ANTONIO MARRAS is bountiful. It includes not only rare pieces from his Kenzo collections of the early aughts, but also antique garments from world travels, and rare Sardinian costumes curated by his wife, Patrizia. The pieces, collated over the last 30 years, continue to be a source of inspiration for his creative design process today. Here he gives More Or Less exclusive access to this precious collection.

Julia Sue Dotson’s designs are about storytelling – exploring topics like gender politics and conventions of domesticity through the use of reclaimed materials

What’s in a name? Whether you choose to call it upcycling or creative reuse, “a new way of doing clothes” is becoming increasingly vital

CDLM’s sustainable practice turns wrecks into wonders. Founder CHRIS PETERS reflects on his journey collecting, crafting and connecting clothing to the world.

For Palestinian designer Hazar Jawabra, knitting is not just a connection to family tradition – it’s a limitless mode of expression, and a source of hope

With its sustainable packaging and small-batch origin story, Kiko Mizuhara’s all-natural made in Japan skincare brand, Kiiks, is rethinking J-beauty

With a flourish of Dior eyebrow pencil, maquillage maestro SAM VISSER cultivates lush make-up schemes that blossom with the rich palette of an O’Keeffe orchid

The polymath graffiti artist RAMMELLZEE embodied the freewheeling creativity of a bygone New York. To celebrate his legacy, his found-object Garbage Gods series of sculptures are brought back to life in a way never seen before – worn by models, rather than as a protective costume for the artist himself

Don’t call it a comeback! Unwanted garments find new form and fresh purpose, thanks to the biggest names in upcycling breaking into the mainstream right now

Model of the moment IDA HEINER travels to Camargue, one of the most picturesque nature reserves in the south of France, arrayed in responsible fashion created to treat the planet with kindness

Indigenous American model QUANNAH CHASINGHORSE is working to effect change – both on the catwalk, and in the embattled ecosystem of the Arctic Circle, as a fourth- generation land protector

The right-hand man to Helmut Lang in the formative years of the 1990s, Kostas Murkudis went on to create an enduringly poetic, unflinchingly progressive body of work that reaches far beyond fashion. As the designer reacquaints himself with his long-lost archives, he gives rare access of these relics to More Or Less, to create this shoot of his past collections

With the vigour of a fashion-obsessed teen, a large dose of Noughties influence and a surreally tinged sense of humour, New York-based Hillary Taymour is running COLLINA STRADA as one of the most invigorating contemporary brands around

While some beauty packaging is innovative, recyclable and compostable, the industry as a whole is one of the most wasteful. But if you can’t recycle it, wear it – these looks are the whole package

A boutique of no fixed abode, home to a patchwork collective of designers whose one-off pieces defiantly distance themselves from the industry mainstream – could FANTASTIC TOILES represent the future of fashion?

From deconstructing old football trainers to using textiles made out of food waste, a dynamic portfolio of footwear designers are walking the walk and taking steps to improve sustainability

Formula E combines all the trackside glamour of traditional motorsport with on-street racing and up-to-the-minute electric-powered engines. The result? New techniques, new strategies and even greater drama

In the seclusion of vintage-shop changing rooms across London, Lara McGrath – aka The Goat Dancer – models one-of-a-kind, one-time outfits extemporised from second-hand pieces and worn for minutes.

With millions of items arriving every week, west Africa has become a dumping ground for Europe’s used clothing. But local designers who champion upcycling and artisanal expertise are making Senegal a fashion hub on its own terms

Five years on from his death, legendary jewellery designer JUDY BLAME’s legacy endures – from the revolutionary street styles he championed, to his resourceful rebellion against consumerism

From protecting Australia’s native fauna to advocating for better representation of the country’s diverse population, model and ecologist ZINNIA KUMAR is making an impact

An activist, a fashion archivist, a perennial punk, a dame of the realm – the incomparable VIVIENNE WESTWOOD was all of these and much more. We salute her life, her lines and her legacy

The man behind the outrageously creative window displays made of second-hand clothes at London’s thriftstore franchise, Traid, FRANCESCO COLUCCI demonstrates his skills on model and muse DIAMOND PEACH LOLLIPOP and tells us how he got in the business of pre-loved fashion.

Designers donated their unwanted deadstock fabric to be draped on the body in couture-inspired silhouettes, offset with statement pieces of recycled and repurposed jewellery

Touché! Strap on your mask and brandish your épée as Olympic fencers Race Imboden and Ysaora Thibus model vintage fencing costumes, breaking ground for sporty fashion

Piero D'Angelo's new AS24+ collection - hand made using lichens, organic wool, walnut ink, hemp, slime mould, and algae - was presented during fashion week at the Oasis Farm in Waterloo in September 2023.

The story behind our fabulous cover shoot for Issue 06 featuring your favourite Earth Angels wearing garms made from, well, trash. This warped BTS shot by Oliver Hadlee Pearch and styled by Charlotte Collet in Kezako examines what is more and what is less- and what is a strappy top made from a baguette?

As the sustainability ambassador for New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, AMBER VALLETTA donated pieces from her wardrobe to five FIT graduates to be reworked into one-of-a-kind upcycled outfits. Now, More Or Less is selling a selection of these unique creations online, in aid of the FIT sustainability fund

Japan is justifiably renowned for its position at the sharp end of avant-garde fashion. So innovative are the designs, indeed, that even lovingly curated archive pieces lose none of their iconoclastic appeal

The cyberpunk era is already here, and as predicted by sci-fi writers it’s a chaotic mishmash of the ultra-modern and the reclaimed recent past. So it’s time to face the future in artfully upcycled designer gear – I’m ready for my CCTV close-up now…

Set adrift on a balmy wave, More Or Less finds inspiration in the shimmering natural formations found on the tropical coastline – conches, cowries, mussels and all their nacreous relatives

Padded, ruched and layered; reworked, reinvented and re-sourced – a blend of artfully upcycled and sculptural designer pieces is a transformative prospect, in all senses of the word

Reworking old trainers and even disused mattresses into exuberant new garments, designer Sebastian A de Ruffray’s SEVALI line offers a witty interpretation of upcycling

Environmentalists are often derided as tree-huggers, but here at More Or Less we consider it’s time to embrace the label. And what better way to engage with nature than in RE/DONE’s responsibly produced denim?

Slimy, versatile seaweed is making waves as a source of biofuel and renewable textiles. It’s also a way to reconnect with the natural world, as Icelandic designer KATRIN THORVALDSDOTTIR’s Transform project demonstrates

Meet the More Or Less secret army of heavenly supermodels, spreading their wings in repurposed underwear ensembles created by KEZAKO, our favourite champions of upcycled fashion

Make-up artist LUCIA PICA, Byredo’s new Creative Image and Makeup Partner, mines the surreal possibilities of earthy, crystalline maquillage – offering both a maximalist and minimalist version of each look. More make-up, or less? The choice is yours…

As our world grows ever more connected, its cultural and political fractures increasingly come to the fore. MORE OR LESS meets the new wave of sustainable designers. Hailing from across the globe, their work reflects the conflicts of their homelands —as well as the hope and traditions.

We took the clothes that nobody wanted, discarded at a recycling plant. Then, stripped and shredded, they were reworked into sculptural, transformative pieces that wear their upcycled origins on their sleeves

Francisco Costa is a fashion legend who oversaw womenswear at Calvin Klein before moving on to create Costa Brazil, an all natural range of beauty products inspired by, and created from the incredible ingredients that Costa’s homeland has to offer. We spoke to him about the brand.

With a label named after his Irish and Jamaican grandfathers, and infused with south-London spirit and upcycling ingenuity, designer Daniel Gayle is exploring legacy on very personal terms, says Ellie Pithers.

On a journey through Tuscany, a single vintage red dress shared between two friends keeps luggage to an absolute minimum

Fashion is in continual flux, as each fresh generation rises up to supplant the last. Here photographer Max Farago passes the baton to his daughter ALMA, who stars in (and takes control of) a shoot bound only by the limits of her imagination

What happens to all the clothes that are left unclaimed at the dry cleaners? Waste not, want not, is our motto. Here we road-test those neglected items and give them new purpose. Everything is crisp, clean and pressed, naturally

Lebanese renaissance woman HALA MOAWAD creates one-off leather garments from fleamarket pieces and appliquéd off-cuts. She gives these pieces a new life, rising out of the remnants like a phoenix from the flames.

Reflecting on oneself and learning about others is a vital part of good mental wellbeing – it’s as important as your five-a-day. Musician Joyce, aka FLOWER OV LUV, and her brother WILFRED explore their personalities with a questionnaire about themselves and each other. No conferring allowed!

Introducing the new collaboration between More Or Less and ARIES ARISE – a bespoke capsule collection created from upcycled archive pieces and studio offcuts. It’s available exclusively online, and modelled here by the ethereal beauty GEORGIA PALMER

Inspired by images of makeshift face masks in the early days of the pandemic, emerging designer SAN KIM responded with a collection of surreal full-body armour, crafted from reclaimed plastics bags and inflated to comical proportions

As a child, photographer NADINE IJEWERE would be visited by her aunts, who returned to Nigeria with her outgrown clothes to distribute them to the wider family, giving the garments a second life. Inspired by them, and by using a mix of hand-me-downs, vintage and eco-brands, she creates a shoot where garments – new, old and certainly sustainable – can be worn in more than one way

Join us on the crest of a rave as we re-create the euphoria of the Balearic house scene via the natural beauty of sea foam. Much of the eco clubwear is derived from recycled ocean plastic, keeping the tides clear

From grannies to graduates, everyone’s gone gaga for knitting during the pandemic. With crochet being a more sustainable and circular alternative to mass production, we celebrate the beauty of the knit, as interpreted by some of London’s most exciting fashion students

Out in the wilderness of France’s Luberon national park, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in the heart of Provence, model MICA ARGAÑARAZ communes with nature in organic pieces, complemented by a series of specially commissioned land-art sculptures

Taking inspiration from classic ready-to-wear pieces, our favourite “fake fashion” label KEZAKO PARIS emulates catwalk looks with nothing more than a dab of body paint. Proof, perhaps, that true style is only skin deep?

More or Less has partnered with FARFETCH, the global destination for modern luxury to inspire and empower people to be more positively conscious with the fashion decisions they make.

More or Less teamed up with Microsoft to launch Augmented Atelier, a new digital approach to garment creation that taps four of London’s most cutting-edge fashion designers: Bethany Williams, Frederick Tjaerenson, Phoebe English and Rottingdean Bazaar.

Design duo CHOPOVA LOWENA combine traditional folkloric influences with touches of retro sportwear

Heirloom pieces designed to last generations are sustainable by their very nature – and all the more so with today’s innovative jewellery designs incorporating found objects and reclaimed metals

Artist DANIELLE JACQUI’s painstakingly constructed garments are a vivid patchwork of colour, like oils mingling on a palette. Rejoicing in their imperfections, these meticulous embroideries put fast fashion in its place

With her meticulously crafted pieces, artist and designer SUSAN CIANCOLO blurred the lines between high fashion and high art since the 1990s. Here, the streets of Milan are the backdrop for a private view of her dazzling archive

Model ADESUWA AIGHEWI went from Minneapolis to the world stage and back again to find her purpose. Now, with her LEGACY project, centered on the crafts and beauty of Nigeria, she’s finally home.

For Cult Berlin label GMBH, fashion is all about telling stories: about the world, its climate and the communities we live in. And its designers, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, are determined that they – and not the fashion industry – will be the ones to set the narrative

As the largest luxury consignment site in America, THE REAL REAL is a strong champion of the circular economy – in which clothing is resold, reused and recycled to ensure nothing goes to waste. Here’s our pick of the riches to be found on its virtual rails

Clothes are there to keep you warm or to highlight your sense of self, but we’re all the same underneath. Sometimes you feel like wearing a sweater, because the weather has changed – and sometimes you feel like wearing nothing at all.

They’re made from the most ubiquitous of cloths, but even straightforward jeans have hidden complexities. New and repurposed denim fuse with vintage pieces in a collage of blue that keep you guessing

Is it always better down where it’s wetter? According to the Ellen McArthur Foundation, there will be more plastic than fish in our oceans by the year 2050. There are multiple damaging factors to blame – to help, firstly look to yourself to see what you can do in your life

OLIVIA KIM, Vice-President of Creative Projects at Nordstrom, tells More Or Less why curating a dedicated space to showcase their forward-thinking designs was a deeply personal project.

Blending garments and accessories into one another with fearless asymmetry, SARAH APHRODITE takes a playful approach to design. Created with an artist’s mindset and tapping into the idea of fashion as costume, her ingenious creations prove that there’s no need for sustainability to feel dull or worthy

At home on the range in Portugal, model JAMIE BOCHERT demonstrates the self-sufficient methods that earned this plot of earth its Wildlife Estates label. Committed to nurturing biodiversity, the farm exemplifies the small but vital steps that can be undertaken for the conservation of nature. Vegetable patches and arable land are interlaced with corridors of wild flowers for colonies of pollinating bees, while sustainable herds of cattle, lamb, pig, deer, ducks and chickens graze on natural pasture. The fields form mosaics round untouched, natural land, home to the rare Iberian red partridge – a reminder that the key to the future is sharing the world with all forms of life. Get generous!

Photographer JAMIE HAWKESWORTH’s travelogue photographs, taken for the last issue of More Or Less, struck a chord with designer JUNYA WATANABE and inspired this unique collaboration.

At the point where vintage fabrics and delicate embroidery meet forward- looking silhouettes, EMILY BODE’s clothes are a glimpse of the future of fashion. More Or Less meets the award-winning designer who pairs the romance of a couturier with the sustainable mindset so necessary for now.

It’s far easier to follow your head than your heart with HURTENCE’s off-kilter millinery, which is bringing new dimensions to this most traditional of accessories. More Or Less speaks to designer MADDY THORNALLEY about her beautiful and bizarre creations, all of them handmade using vintage fabrics.

From experimental textiles to new pigments, designers and scientists are looking into fresh ways of collaborating with the natural world, rather than destroying it. More Or Less explores the new frontier of biodesign.

The future of shopping is leasing. With the style-for-hire industry exploding in recent years, More Or Less discusses the benefits with SARA ARNOLD, the face behind HIGHER STUDIO: a monthly subscription library of fashion that offers all the loftiest brands to rent.

Under extreme conditions, your equipment becomes your lifeline – a small foldable and lightweight reminder of human civilisation. More Or Less heads into the unknown with works by LUCY ORTA, winner of the United Nations Green Leaf Award for art with an environmental message

An organised uniform is intended to prevent the wastage of time on matters of personal vanity, thereby creating a level playing field for everyone that wears it. Dissent, though, is just an untucked shirt away

DEPOP is not only the beloved social sales platform of savvy kids selling vintage clothes, it is now also acknowledged as a reputable goldmine for incredible preowned and one-off fashion treasures.

London’s Portobello Market is famous for being one of the best sources of vintageclothing in the world. Using finds scoured from its stalls, we dress both humans and scarecrows alike. After all, it’s the clothes that maketh the straw man

Dropped accidentally, disposed of incorrectly or simply left behind for somebody else – a collection of clothing found discarded on the streets of New York City provides rich pickings in this collaboration between model and artist SASKIA DE BRAUW and her photographer husband

From offcuts to couture – More Or Less asked 11 designers to reframe our idea of waste, taking up scraps and fabric fragments from their atelier floors and showing us the exquisite possibilities in what was once discarded

Off-kilter, authentic, esoteric and grounded all at once, ROTTINGDEAN BAZAAR are a law unto themselves. Shirking definition, the designers James Theseus Buck and Luke Brooks exemplify a fresh aesthetic, prizing DIY over the old notions of trend-led fashion. More Or Less shoots their runway collection of subverted rental costumes, while SIMON COSTIN, creator of the Museum of British Folklore, imagines a surreal encounter with the duo in their home town as he searches for a fancy-dress hire shop

The fashion industry has the creative power to shift how we make and buy clothes in an environmentally friendly way – and now is the time to do it. Model, actress and activist AMBER VALLETTA talks us through the industry’s new mission, while demonstrating the allure of sustainable and upcycled brands

From discarded scrap to coveted clothing, a coterie of young designers are repurposing and recycling objects to create fashion with a conscience. Here they speak about the motives behind their reworked creations – and the art of making anew from used materials

Our cover star KATE MOSS graces our first ever issue of More Or Less. Here she is wearing her top vintage finds from her wardrobe as curated by her best friend and secret fashion advisor, James Brown.

Black Flag, Danzig, Napalm Death… SYLVIA FARAGO models her extensive collection of vintage T-shirts alongside her friend STEPHEN O’MALLEY of experimental band Sunn O))). “What is destroyed by fire, a perfect silhouette, dilates full”

There is nothing as cathartic as a closet clearout. The exquisite CHLOE SEVIGNY shot in Connecticut modelling clothes from a recent storage space cleanse, to be sold one day at the yardsale of our dreams. Even her rejects are worth a shoot!

The light of Morocco has a curious effect, contorting colours and shifting hues as the hours of the day go by.

KATE MOSS is recognised as one of the great trailblazers of vintage clothing, and over the years has assembled a legendary archive. More Or Less invited the hairstylist JAMES BROWN – Kate’s longtime thrift-shop fashion adviser – to help her pick out a very personal selection from her vast wardrobe

A stylist’s wardrobe is a sacred place, where you’ll find their most treasured discoveries (whether they be the world’s rarest pieces or a £1 car-boot find). It’s about a lifelong love affair with fashion, as stylist and consultant FRANCESCA BURNS explains. Here she turns back the clock and speaks to Julia Hobbs about the looks that defined her youth

They’re cheap, they’re tacky and they’re not the best at blocking out dangerous UV rays. More Or Less raids the corner-shop carousel for the lowest-priced shades in town