Fermentation. The 12000 year old process of adding enzymes (bacteria and yeast) to a natural thing to change their potency. Apples become cider, grapes become wine. You might think this natural process of producing chemical changes in an organic substance through the action of enzymes (or if you’re a biochemist, extracting energy from a carbohydrate in the absence of oxygen yo), as being something strictly for the fridge or wine bottle. Think again – this time it’s for your face.
Just as we know that eating kimchi (or, ahem, drinking wine) benefits the digestion process with enzymes and nutrients, topical skincare made with fermented ingredients is more potent and more easily absorbed as once the enzymes are secreted, the molecules are broken down into smaller parts. Usually derived from fruits, yeasts, nuts, vegetables or milk (looking at you, Lactic Acid), these natural ingredients help to create a healthy microbiome, the ecosystem of bacteria that lives on the skin, therefore playing an important role in lessening the effects of dehydration, acne, rosacea and irritation.
Sunday Riley – a skincare brand that has looked to fermentation for it’s products for a while – uses prebiotic fermented honey, green tea and ceramides in it’s Pink Drink Essence, while Glossier’s Cleanser Concentrate uses grape ferment together with lactic and magic acids to brighten and tighten the skin. TikTok fans might recognise the fermented rice water trend that boosted the shine of user’s hair; and now Grow Gorgeous have launched Gallinée Soothing Cleansing Cream to bump up the gloss factor. Vintner’s Daughter’s Active Treatment Essence takes a full 100 days to create – green tea leaves are left to ferment naturally outside, before being placed underground in a traditional Korean earthenware onggis.
It’s been proven that fermented skincare products have a multitude of benefits – but perhaps the real joy is that moving your skincare routine away from chemically produced products to a natural world is good for the mind and soul. Why would you want to put something on your face that you have no idea what it is or how it is made? The idea of spreading Fresh’s Black Tea Kombucha facial treatment is all the more appealing because It’s familiar and you know it’s good for you. And, just like with everything else we consume, from fashion to food, maybe that is where we should be moving – towards the natural world.